Sunday at the Reformed Church of Zambia

On Sunday Oct 13^th, I went to church with our taxi driver, Isaac.  I didn’t know much about it beforehand, but he promised lots of singing and dancing, so I signed up.  I have yet to meet a Zambian who doesn't go to church and they wear the length of the service like a badge of honour, so I had several to choose from!  Unfortunately, Kat couldn’t join because she had left for Chipata that morning on a field visit.  Isaac picked me up at 9am and we headed up the road to the Bauleni compound.  A compound is kind of a slum, or maybe a shanty town.  In this one, there was one paved road and then you turn onto a dirt track to get into the neighbourhood.

road into Bauleni

We bumped and bounced past tiny shops and bars (where lots of people were already drinking shake shake) and throngs of people were walking everywhere.  We went deeper and deeper into the compound and finally ended up at the Reformed Church of Zambia, Bauleni congregation.  It was already over 30 celcius and I was wearing a suit and tie.  Needless to say, I was the only muzungu (not just in the church – in Bauleni).

 

After a short intro, the service began with an hour and a quarter of various choirs singing and dancing – must be seen to be believed and I don’t have the internet speed to upload, but I will some day.  It was totally incredible.  I have always wanted to see Baptist churches in the southern US in action and I’m guessing this is what it must be like – except this whole thing was in Nyanja (language)!  It was awesome!  Isaac told me it was “no problem” to take photos and video, so after some initial shyness, I stood right at the front of the church, in everybody’s way, and took tons of video and some photos. Here’s one of the choirs. 

The church was packed with kids roaming everywhere, but being very quiet and well behaved, as are all kids here I’ve noticed... 

After the singing and dancing ended, there was a one and a quarter hour sermon which, while I understood none of it, seemed very fire-and-brimstoney to me as the pastor was doing a lot of finger wagging and very loud preaching.  This was then followed by the announcements and then the introduction of the guests.  There were 6 of us, who then each made a contribution into a special bowl and then stood in front of the congregation while our details were recorded in a book.  Each of us was then introduced and then I was selected to say a few words.  Never being short of those, I did, thanking them for their hospitality and congratulating them on their wonderful choirs.

The service wrapped up around 12:45 (over 3 hours from start to finish) and Isaac drove me out of the compound

Isaac and his wife

Some kids on the lone paved road

 and back home, where I quickly changed clothes, jumped back in his car and went to my boss (Jay’s) house for thanksgiving lunch of roast chicken, potatoes, several veggie dishes and wine while their kids swam in their pool.  The contrast couldn’t have been any more stark between my morning and my afternoon!

Cheers,
Bruce

Next blog: field trip #2